The Volvo 240 Service Manual: 1983-1993 is a comprehensive source of service information and specifications for Volvo 240 and other Volvo 200-series cars built from model years 1983 through 1993. Whether you're a professional technician or a do-it-yourself Volvo owner, this manual will help you understand, maintain, and repair systems on the Volvo 240. Volvo 200-series and 240 models covered in this repair manual:
bentley repair volvo 240 zip
Our Greensboro Independent Volvo auto repair service department is standing by to keep your car, truck, or SUV running smoothly for years to come. Our highly-trained technicians will maximize your vehicle's performance. All service includes a multi-point vehicle inspection to identify developing problems so you can avoid future breakdowns.
Hi faof2 Jerry,Want to say Fafnir for some reason. Like Fafnir in MechWarrior or in Irish Celtic legend.Remember, first perform your PCV system repair.Again, take GREAT care not to disturb or dislodge the drain tube under the breather box drain hole (one of two holes). The material is probably rather brittle now yet appears to endure for more than a few 100,000s of miles if not disturbed.Should you want details, I performed a PCV repair from atop the breather box to the intake manifold using new parts from the iPd >1988 non-turbo PCV relocation kit I got some years ago. I've replaced the breather box when clearing a clog in it for another person many years ago. The used dino oil and did not change it regularly with poor driving habits of short trips and engine control fault leading to rich running. It was terrible. The guy never lubed the hinges (hood, door, trunk lid) and corresponding latches.The flame trap housing and flame arrestor sieve is new. Yet the material is not the best and the molding is sort of terrible.I used hose clamps, and applied a very gentle torque so it seals. I was using UV resistant plastic zip ties, yet these continued to fail, with a resulting OBD-1 socket 2 (fuel injection) fault code of 2-3-2 for low air intake manifold vacuum causing the lambda oxygen sensor to report an imbalance of what the engine eats (air, fuel, spark) and the emissions production in the exhaust.The Volvo blue stripe PCV vapor hose inside diameter is smaller then the 1989+ orifice tube atop the 1989+ oil breather separator box.Freely breathing yet sealed (no loss of manifold vacuum) PCV may resolve a major cause and portion of engine oil loss. Keep in mind you may need to replace the PCV oil breather separator or oil trap box. Use the Volvo OEM box should you replace it and use Volvo seals, o-rings, gaskets. Same is true when replacing the water pump. You can use Volvo OEM, yet read through posts here on this and other forums as the Volvo blue box water pump, the last one I got was made in England, ended up leaking coolant from the inner seal through the lower weep hole. The anti freeze leak was so slight I could not smell it until the end. The antifreeze leak (green Prestone and distilled water, NEVER tap water) ruined the factory Bosch alternator electrically. Bearings were fine and a recent set of Bosch brushes. The diodes were fine so said the electric digital multimeter.Huh, nomenclature. 1. When you read a published board on this brickboard, your eye-bulb wanders to the bottom of the article. Below the message find the line:Was this posting interesting or helpful? Click the thumb you choose. No need to at all for me or anyone. As you like. I'm perpetually wanting and recall how and why not to want.2. Thanks. Been asking since like 1994 or so. More proof prayer or faith does not work.3. I meant no need to replace the front timing cover plate gasket as you ask. Merely a suggestion. Same for the rear main bearing crank seal carrier plate. Gaskets like seals fail. I'd replace the paper gaskets. No, do not replace the paper gaskets if you do not want to do so. You indicate a lack of intuitive mechanical skills and auto repair experience.The Bentley 240 Service Manual bible may be best for you if not already. You can find these Bentley 240 service manuals used on Amazon and elsewhere. The paper back service manual is a lower price. You may find method discussion for how to repair using the search feature on the main brickboard RWD forum page. There exist other forums like the UK Volvo Enthusiast forum and maybe Matthews Volvo Site that may contain the information you want.As for any reference with procedure, the Volvo 700-900 Series FAQ may contain it. I've posted the link that may contain it (copy and paste URL in new tab or window) -900/EngineSealsBeltsVent.htmThe article recommends using the seal press.Crank seal press, what Tasca Volvo parts names as a Mandrel: -parts/volvo-drift-mandrel-9995283The note "Please Call for Availability" may suggest the tool is a classic Volvo part and comes from Sweden.Same from the Volvo Parts Webstore: Tasca Indicates the cam seal press tool is NLA: -parts/volvo-press-tool-9995025You may want to contact the local stealership as there exist the Volvo Dealership network or somesuch. There may be a new old stock on thshelf in North America or at least in the US.iPd USA and FCPEuro no longer sell these tools. SPX as mentioned in the Volvo 700-900 Series FAQ no longer handles Volvo tools like these seal presses. Seem to sell for Volvo truck engine.From my asking around, most just put the seals in by hand and gently tap them in.Yes you can do this. Some get lucky, I guess. Most will dislodge the round compression spring that maintains the inner seal against the rotating cam surface. Some will make a quasi seal press using PVC, a large washer, and use the timing belt cam cog or crank t-belt gear retaining bolt to press the oil seal.The advantage of using the seal press is how the oil seal fits over the seal press, compressing the inner seal while enlarging the inside diameter of the seal with distorting the oil seal inner sealing edge. When you slowly press in the seal to a depth that is different then the prior sealing polished mark, as you want the new seal to contact the rotating surface not contacted by a previous seal.Yet first, service the PCV system. We can hope (HA!) the repair service did install the seals correctly or in some fashion the oil seals work. So you halt or greatly reduce oil loss. I doubt the front engine oil seals were properly installed from your description and what you revealed through the dialogue in this thread.Art B's instruction was too technical for me to know what to do. Does BB have a tutorial? Any ideas on that?Our Uncle Arty B. provided instruction to you or does Art's cleanflametrap.com site include a page on engine oil seal replacement?The Bentley Volvo 240 Service Manual bible is your best bet. Haynes 240 Service manual is next. Chilton and Clymer may be next.There also exist the Volvo 240 green manuals from various years around the i-net. Yet these clearly indicate the use of Volvo tools and the illustrations show the tool and the part number. Bentley and Haynes and Chilton and Clymer (and others) will reuse Volvo factory green (or the newer blue cover) service manuals at times.Also, see YouTube for many instructional videos on this and other RWD service topics for the same engine. You need not merely limit yourself to 1993 240. Something like B230 engine oil seal replacement or water pump replacement or the like.MS Weird:p.s. I just noticed that when I typed this out in WORD, even though I tried to highlight your questions by changing the font and the color, those changes did not transfer to this writeup.If copying the text from MS Word editor, you copy the text and not any sort of HTML formatting.Does not work so well if you save the content as "Filtered HTML" or merely "HTML". You would learn to merely make use of HTML expressions to display image files, color, bold, italicize text.Draft and check in MS Word. Then use past into a simple WYSIWYG HTML editor to select the content, apply color and formatting, save as simple HTML. Do not use Cascading Style sheets. Yet as with auto repair, take a class or learn for yourself.You can use some html in your brickboard posts to apply formatting.As with our Art's infographic on linking images:Try here. I-net is replete with resources. Maybe Also see you YouTube for simple HTML formatting. Your HTML editor need not be WYSIWYG. Merely apply the HTML tags to at the start and at the finish of the test you want to change.You can do this in brickboard with about two hours of time to edit before you can't edit.Yes, I need more useful keyboard time. Yet a brickboard or facebook is not the same as formal illustrated technical, procedure, process, policy, SDLC (systems or software), manufacturing, or other documentation.Does that help?Questions?No worries. Many more long topics here that are much longer.Don't forget to subscribe or donate to the brickboard!!!!! Jarrod Stenberg deserves it and I hope his IT and other consulting businesses make him a mint in RWD Volvo autos, or an ongoing pile of Platinum, Gold, and Palladium bullion, or a mountains of paper currency or cryptocurrency units that exceeds inflation and monetary unit devaluation.Happy New Decade. Starts with the year ending in zero. cheers,MacDuffy's Buttermilk Tavern - wants to go back to mighty WA-state. MO-state sucks. Or North Idaho or Western MT or NW Michigan and the Michigan UP at Houghton.--Jonathan Harshman Winters III: The Mightiest, Greatest, & Most Powerful North American Comedian & Comedic Actor in Perpetuity 2ff7e9595c
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